Conventional metered taxis are non-existent in Phnom Penh. One firm made a brief appearance a couple years ago, but quickly gave up. Car rentals with driver can be arranged at the better hotels. Figure US$25-$35 for a full day and US$15-$20 for a half day, including the hotel's mark-up. A good tip is to make buddies with the private taxi driver who brought you into town from the airport, especially if he's got a clean car and speaks English. Get his mobile phone number and say you'll be in touch!

The best way of getting around Phnom Penh is by motodup (motorcycle taxi) which means anyone with a motorbike. You can simply wave down a passing motorbike and an unemployed guy suddenly becomes an employed guy. Expect to pay a minimum of 1000 riel (30¢) for most trips up to a kilometer.

Caution: thieves like foreigners on the back of a motorbike. Keep your belongings closely attached to yourself, like you were clutching your own newborn. Bandits have been known to regularly stop mopeds carrying foreigners at nighttime and rip them off.

Small motorbikes can be rented at some of the hotels. Both small and larger-cc bikes can be had at two shops next to the Hong Kong Hotel on Monivong Boulevard. The road bikes are usually ancient 250cc Honda Rebel "choppers" imported in massive crates from California. Many still sport their California tags (which expired in 1985). A better bet for motorcycle enthusiasts are the Honda 250cc Degrees and AX-1s, dual-sport machines far better suited for Cambodia's dismal roads. Both types of machines run about US$6-$7 per day. No insurance provided, so if you wreck it, you pay for it (about US$1,400). Passports are left with the rental company as deposit. Lucky Lucky's Motorcycles (413 Eo 93 Monivong Blvd; tel: 855-23-212788) has a good reputation, but don't expect well-maintained bikes. You'd better have some mechanic experience if venturing out into the countryside.

The Capitol Guesthouse (#14 Street 182, just west of Monivong; tel: 855-23-724104) rents bicycles for about US$1 per day. More serious enthusiasts head over to the bike shops near the intersection of streets of 182 and 107 and buy a cheap mountain bike for about US$50 (and usually resell it for US$30).