Air

Bangkok Airways made headlines in 1998 when they began offering direct service from Bangkok to Siem Riep, bypassing the capital, Phnom Penh. Suddenly Angkor Wat became a day trip from Bangkok! The rest is history. Today there are non-stop flights from a half dozen cities, including Bangkok, Phuket, Saigon and Vientiane. Fares vary, but are generally less than US$300 roundtrip. Siem Riep Airways offers daily service to Phnom Penh.

Water

A daily speedboat departs at approximately 7am from Phnom Penh's Chrouy Changvar Bridge (Japanese Bridge). The 5-hour journey up the Tonle Sap River costs US$25 one way. Purchase tickets at least a day in advance.

Land

Shared taxis, pickup trucks and vans make the journey from Phnom Penh over 314 excruciating kilometers in 9-12 hours. The Capitol Guesthouse in Phnom Penh (tel: 855-23-724104) and the Popular Guesthouse in Siem Reap (tel: 855-15-917377) run vans between the two cities for about US$9 one way. If you go in a pickup truck, the cost is US$3-$6 depending on whether you sit in the cab or the bed of the truck.

Another alternative is motorcycle. Honda 250cc Degrees and AX-1s (dual-sport machines suited for Cambodia's dismal roads) run about US$6-$7 per day in Phnom Penh. There's no insurance, so if you wreck it, you'll pay for it (about US$1400). Passports are left with the rental company as security. Lucky Lucky's Motorcycles (tel: 855-23-212788) is the best bet. Don't expect well-maintained bikes - you'd better have some mechanical experience if venturing up to Siem Reap!